Shreds and Patches

Imaginitive use of Drunkard's Path block

2011-06-28T20:04:00.009Z

One of my p&q pupils has a friend in Ontario, who sent her this table runner. It's actually very simply constructed, using Drunkard's Path blocks in an imaginitive way to produce a very strking design.

The detail on the right shows how it's constructed. Twelve Drunkard's Path blocks are set with six four-patch blocks and triangles at the edges. Clever, eh?

It would make a lovely Christmas hanging or table runner.

My new 'Comfy' quilt

2011-04-10T21:14:00.002Z

This my recently-acquired 'Comfy' quilt. For an explanation and history of 'Comfy'quilts go to my website: http://www.quilt.co.uk/

Christmas Workshop 2010

2010-12-03T20:16:00.007Z

On the left is Dorothy in pressing mode.

Below, right: Chris is concentrating hard on machine-stitching, while Jose is doing I'm not sure what!

It was a good day and everybody completed their Stained Glass Xmas Tree decoration.

Ecumenical Star

2010-12-03T20:03:00.002Z

My Islamic Star to celebrate A Christian festival!

Patchwork dogs

2010-12-03T19:37:00.004Z

(Yellow) Sam and (Black) Bren are in their accustomed positions on winter evenings, enjoying the comfort of their own quilts. Two of those shown, admittedly, have been inherited from a previous generation of dogs. Using upholstery scraps to make quilts which can double up as sofa throws for dogs means that I can try out new patterns and methods without using valuable (and expensive) patchwork fabrics, then if I don't like the pattern/method, there's nothing lost. Also, patchwork quilts looks much nicer than plain old dog blankets and the upholstery fabric is hard-wearing and stands up to weekly washings. Altogether, a happy combination, giving pleasure both to dogs and to people.

Cockermouth Frame Quilt

2009-03-07T13:41:00.006Z

I recently bought this double-bed-sized Frame Quilt from a Cockermouth dealer. I think the centre is quite unusual, being a Hawaiian-style appliqué cut from a single piece of fabric. In all other respects, this is a classic English Frame Quilt, with nine borders, some of which are pieced, surrounding the centre square. It is quilted with the characteristic All-over Wave pattern found in the regions bordering the Irish Sea. The fabrics are all dress cottons and look, at first sight and without researching any of them, as if they date from the mid-C19th.

The condition of the quilt is fair, with considerable fading on one end. There are a few small holes where the fabric has worn through to reveal the cotton wadding.

The dealer told me that the quilt had been brought to her by a local lady, who said it had belonged to her mother. Of course, the dealer was unwilling to give me the name of the person from whom she'd bought it - I can only assume because she didn't want me to know how much she'd paid for it. (Or am I being cynical?!)

I'm thinking of advertising locally to see if I can find the seller, from whom I might be able to get some provenance.

The quilt is a useful and interesting addition to my small collection of local (i.e. West Coast) quilts since this is the first example of this particular style I've been able to acquire. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has knowledge of any other Frame Quilts with appliqué centres.

A Mysterious Textile

2008-11-19T09:53:00.003Z

At the 2008 BQSG Seminar I showed a large cotton textile, dated 1906, which I had borrowed from the Design and Textile Archive of Stead McAlpin in Carlisle. The main point of interest was that this large item (108" X108"),printed with a centre design surrounded by borders, was described in the archive records as ‘a quilt’. As far as I can discover so far, there are no surviving examples of either quilts or coverlets of this size and style yet the records show that large numbers of these textiles were made and dispatched during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. So the questions arise: what were they for, how were they used and, even more curiously, where did they go?

After a follow-up visit to the archive, I can at least clarify one aspect of the textile which was puzzling: it is very stiff, almost canvas-like, so it was hard to see how it could ever be quilted in the conventional sense, either by hand or machine, even assuming that was its intended function. I now know that the textile as seen by us is in an unfinished state, i.e. straight from the printing process. It would then have been subjected to a further long processes of treatment to both fix the printing and to soften the fabric. In other words, when it left the mill it would have been in a suitable condition for use as a household textile in whatever capacity. It has been suggested that the reason it remained at the mill, rather than being dispatched, may have been some fault in the printing.

This, unfortunately, doesn’t take us much further in determining the ultimate fate of these textiles, the one I showed being but one of many. One suggestion is that they may have been made for export and, America being a very likely destination for such goods, I'm asking mmbers of the American Quilt History List (QHL) if anyone can cast further light on the subject.

The photos show the top half of the textile and the centre motif respectively.

Mrs. Oxtoby's Quilts

2008-11-03T21:47:00.006Z

Earlier this year, I was fortunate to be able to acquire four quilts from a local (Wigton) lady, all showing clear evidence of their local provenance in the form of the All-over Wave quilting which is endemic to the NorthWest coast of England and to the geographically contiguous area of Northern Ireland. Two of them are shown on the bed, the other two being a well-washed and worn single Irish Chain quilt in blue and white, and a pink-and-white checkerboard quilt. The Turkey red frame quilt, the top quilt on the bed, is particularly striking, being in excellent condition and completely unfaded.

Mrs. Oxtoby's mother died last year and in clearing out the house prior to sale, the Oxtoby's came across a trunk in the attic containing the four quilts. (Yes, it can still happen!) Members of the family then remembered that the quilts had been given to Mr. Oxtoby's parents on their marriage. The donors were, it was claimed, two sisters and the assumption was that they were also the makers of the quilts. They were the daughters of a prominent member of Wigton society, a book-seller named Thomas McMechan, who lived with his family over his shop.

That is as far as my information goes so far but it's a good start to providing a credible provenance for the quilts. Now that I've completed, and delivered, my paper for the British Quilt Study Group I intend to spend some time delving into the provenance of these quilts.

'Fans in Boxes' or Cheating at Patchwork

2008-08-29T19:45:00.008Z

These are details of a quilt made as a door curtain ('portiére') for our sitting room. The slightly 3-D effect is created by using dark and light fabrics for the angled 'boxes'.

However, the blocks are not pieced - they were made by attaching the fan blades to blocks of plain silk using fusible webbing. Each blade was then outlined in satin stitch using a green silk thread. A great advantage of this method is that unusual and exotic fabrics can be used; the black arcs are velvet, the 'boxes' are satin, which has been embellished with lines of embroidery, and the fan blades include cottons, brocade, satin and upholstery fabrics.

Quite a few blocks can be created in this way, especially fans and Drunkard's Path blocks.

Indian Patterns: New work by Barbara Howell

2008-02-17T15:42:00.003Z

Three framed embroideries by Barbara Howell, part of a series exploring colours and patterns of Indian designs.

The Jewel-Bright Sampler Quilt

2008-01-25T16:57:00.001Z

For this Sampler quilt, the theme was predominantly reds and greens in jewel-bright colours. There are fifteen blocks set on point and joined with sashings and posts. The triangle in-fills round the edge are a Turkey red print, a repro fabric I bought for another project which I never got round to.

The quilt was put together and quilted by my friend, Debbie, who is a whizz at machine-quilting large quilts. Using nothing more technically sophisticated than her domestic sewing machine, she quilts each individual block to suit the pattern. I Like this way of machine quilting much better than the 'all-over' patterns you get when you send the quilt for long-arm quilting, which to my eye results in a rather deadening effect on the surface and detracts from the individuality of the quilt.

Jeanne's Patchwork Quilt Completed

2007-11-25T14:10:00.001Z

Jeanne's amazing Rainbow Tumbling Blocks quilt has been completed and put on her bed. It would really need a full-frontal shot to do it justice as it's difficult to see from this angle how subtley the the colours in the four sections have been blended. Jeanne had started on this major project, all stitched by hand, before she joined Brown House Quilters but was able to get some help and advice in quilting it and finishing it to superb effect.

Quilts from the Alhambra - Star Octagon

2007-08-30T16:55:00.001Z

Star Octagon is another recurring pattern in Moorish decoration, used in tiling, screens and many other contexts. It adapts easily to patchwork piecing, only two templates being needed to form the pattern which is built up in squares.

In this version I've used a border fabric to add complexity to the design, as you can see in the detail shown below.

Festival of Quilts 2007 - Bob Adams

2007-08-21T20:18:00.000Z

Apart from the pleasure of catching up with old friends, and of seeing new work by people whose progress I've been following for years, every FOQ holds exciting possibilities for encountering artists who may be well-established but who are new to me. This year it was the artist Bob Adams whose quilted textiles proved to be a revelation.

Do you know the story The Twelve Dancing Princesses, by the Brothers Grimm?
Blue Trunks, shown here with Bob's permission, immediately transported me into the magical landscape through which the princesses passed on their way to illicit rendevous with their dancing partners. It has a slightly eerie, unreal atmosphere; it is a landscape which we can recognise but yet makes us feel a little uneasy.

All Bob's quilted textiles are suffused with atmospheric light - the quilts in the series based on observations of the phases of the moon in particular reveal a truthful observation of celestial phenomena which is transcended and transfomed by the subtle play of light and colour.

As so often the case with textile art, illustrations cannot do justice to the work. The texturised surfaces add depth and complexity to the graphic images: seen 'for real', these pieces express the sheer pleasure and satisfaction which the artist finds in using fabric and stitch. In her book, The Work of Craft, Carla Needleman says this: 'The beauty of the object derives from the quality of the work that went into it. ' Bob Adam's textiles are beautiful, and beautifully crafted. Find out more about him on:http://www.bobadamsart.com/index.html damsart.com/index.html

Heritage Quilters visit The Brown House

2007-08-05T19:53:00.000Z

Heritage Quilters of Carlisle visited The Brown House on 31st July. Here we are, inspecting some quilts in my attic work-room. This one is a Trailing Stars scrap quilt. Luckily, the appalling weather we'd had the previous day relented and the party were able to look at the garden as well. Somehow, interest in gardens and quilts seems to go together so most people who come to visit the one, also want to see the other!

Brown House Quilters - work in progress

2007-07-30T19:50:00.000Z

It all begins round the kitchen table at The Brown House. Then they take their work home and come back with it all magically finished!
Sometimes they take it really seriously and work hard. But not always!
Notice that the work is fuelled by copious amounts of tea and biscuits.

Brown House Quilters - Sampler quilts

2007-07-26T09:58:00.000Z

After many months of enthusiastic work, members of the group have got to the stage when all the blocks have to be arranged, ready for assembling the quilt tops. This isn't as easy as you might think, as anyone who has tried it will tell you. Every time you think you've got it just right, you think that a small adjustment will make it look more pleasing. When you've done that, something else comes to the eye - two dark blocks placed adjacent to each other don't look good, or some of the patterns would look better seperated, or....And so it goes on.

Chris laid all her blocks out on the floor while the rest of us stood round and offered comments - in fact, we agreed that she'd got it about right almost first time. The blocks will be set together with sashings and posts in light and dark blue.

Jennifer's blocks are on a pink and lilac theme, and she's so pleased with them that she says that she'll re-decorate the room for which the quilt is intended, to make it match the quilt!

As well as the traditional American block patterns used, we covered other useful techniques, such as appliqué, bias appliqué and English piecing over papers. Please note that most of these blocks have been sewn by hand using the American patchwork method. That's because most of the members of the group prefer not to use a sewing machine, enjoying the ability to relax in the comfort of an arm-chair while peacefully sewing!

Alice's Cushion

2007-06-19T19:32:00.000Z

While we were on holiday, Alice beguiled a wet day by creating two patterns which, she thought I could make into quilts. I made the first one into this cushion.

This is Alice's original art-work on A4 card.

I photocopied it in monochrome and enlarged it to A3 size.
I marked the outline of each shape using a medium black felt pen and identified the colour on each one.

Then I traced each shape on tracing paper and cut it out. I used the tracing paper shapes as patterns to cut out the shapes in fabric.

I sprayed a piece of calico fabric with temporary fabric adhesive and laid out and pinned the pieces on it. Next, the panel was mounted on wadding and backing and pinned through all three layers. Finally, each shape was outlined with a wide zig-zag stitch which had the effect of anchoring the pattern together and at the same time quilting it. A border was added to make a good-sized cushion.

Quilts from the Alhambra

2007-06-14T10:21:00.000Z

Another quilt in my series inspired by Moorish patterns, exemplified by those found on walls, screens, floors and, especially, tiles in The Alhambra Palace at Grenada. The six-pointed interlaced star is one of the simpler designs, easy to re-create in patchwork. Some of the more complex designs could be interpreted in appliqué - but the MOST mathematically complex are impossible to imagine in any form other than the original!

A detail is shown of the centre star. The pattern is created by the 'fusssy cutting' method - which is to say by choosing a particular element of a pattern in the fabric and cutting it out as many times as needed. The best way to do this is by using two joined mirrors - I just bought two mirror tiles from a DIY store and joined them with masking tape. Place the template (in this case a 60 degree diamond) between the mirrors and move them about on the fabric until you see a pattern you like. Mark the template to identify the exact place where it is to be placed on the fabric each time. N.B. that I've used a striped border fabric, which is ideal for this type of patchwork.

This detail shows the edge of the quilt with the border cut from long strips of the original border fabric. Another piece is used for the binding. Machine embroidery on the interlacing strips emphasises the directional nature of the pattern.

The quilt is intended as a wall-decoration and measures 30 inches from side to side.

Jeannne's Patchwork Quilt - details

2007-05-14T19:39:00.000Z

Upper picture shows a detail of the front of the patchwork; lower picture shows the reverse after the papers have been removed.

Jeanne's Patchwork Quilt

2007-05-14T19:30:00.000Z

Jeanne brought this patchwork to show other Brown House Quilters when she first joined the class. She'd been working away at it, by hand and without any tuition, for ages. It's a classic example of English patchwork, worked over paper templates. When we saw it, everyone was impressed with the artistry she'd brought to the arrangement of the fabrics, so that the simple, basic Tumbling Blocks pattern was transformed into an exciting piece of textile art.

After getting so much positive feed-back from the class, Jean has been inspired to complete the project; she has chosen border fabic which complements the colour and design of the main field and intends to finish the quilt by the tying method.

The Guernsey Lily

2007-04-11T09:16:00.000Z

The inspiration for this little wall quilt comes from a magnificent American quilt now in the St.Peter Port museum on Guernsey, in the Channel Islands. The original quilt is an outstanding example of a style described as 'Classic Floral' by Ricky Clark in her book Quilted Gardens.(Rutledge Hill Press, 1994). Exactly how this quilt came to be in Guernsey is not clear, but it was almost certainly made by a member of the Ogier family, who emigrated to Guernsey in the Eighteenth Century and were among the founders of Guernsey County, Ohio.

The date 1842 and the initials PO are worked into the front of the quilt in trapunto lettering. Surviving correspondence between emigrees and members of the family who emained in Guernsey show that they remained in touch and it is thought that the quilt was probably sent over as a wedding gift.

When the original quilt was brought to my attention, I nick-named it The Guernsey Lily as there is a real flower of that name. (For any botanically-minded readers:Nerine sarniensis, or the Guernsey lily, was named when a ship was wrecked many years ago on Guernsey, the second largest of the Channel Islands, located off the coast of Normandy. Nerine bulbs washed ashore and took root on the island's sandy beaches. Because the ship was Japanese, it was originally believed that they were Japanese in origin, hence another of the common names, Japanese spider lily, but they are actually native only to South Africa.)

In her book, Clark refers to, and illustrates, a similar quilt,as 'Tulip';its provenance points to the probability that it was made by Mary Ogier of Vinton County, Ohio, which suggests that she may also have made the Guernsey version.

The block, of course, is simply one of innumerable variations on the ubiquitous pieced floral block most familiar as'North Carolina Lily', although it seems to have a different alias in every American State where it appears.

Mr.Simpson's Dressing Gown - finished!

2007-03-07T18:12:00.000Z

Front and Back views of the finished dresing gown.

Reading List 2006

2007-02-22T13:59:00.000Z

I kept a running list of the books I read in 2006 and arranged them in approximate categories, beginning with Arts and Crafts. Some of these books are old friends I had occasion to visit during the year, either for reference or just because I find them so valuable and/or useful that they are worth re-reading.

M.C.Richards: Centering in Pottery, Poetry and the Person (Out of print and apparently unavailable.) Published in 1962. Re-reading this is pure 1960s nostalgia and yet, and yet... how much of what she says is still true, particularly about the true meaning of education.)

Jonathan Holstein: The Pieced Quilt. An American Design Tradition First published in 1973. Absolutely seminal work for anyone onterested in the history of the patchwork quilt in America.

Bets Ramsey,Merikay Waldvogel: Southern Quilts. Quilts of the Civil War

Faun Valentine: West Virginia Quilts and Quiltmakers

Carla Needleman: The Work of Craft

Suzi Gablik: The Re-Enchantment of Art

Anne Truitt: Daybook. The Journey of an Artist

Henry Glassie: The Spirit of Folk Art

Garard Degeorge and Yves Porter: The Art of the Islamic Tile

Lucy Boston's Patchwork of the Crosses

2007-02-22T13:41:00.001Z

Lucy Boston's Patchwork of the Crosses, illustrated in The Patchworks of Lucy Boston, is one of the masterpieces of English patchwork. Fifty-six blocks were made using only one template, a long hexagon ( known as a 'church window'), the edges being in-filled with squares and triangles. Her skilful and imaginative use of patterned fabrics create the illusion of infinitely varied blocks. A detail only is shown here - the full coverlet is about 88" square. This patchwork has been an inspiration to many patchworkers, some of whom have emulated Lucy's painstaking English hand-piecing method. I myself have made some blocks using her templates (sides of hexagon are 1") and her tiny stitching. I only managed about 6 blocks before I succumbed to serious repetitive strain injury!

Copies of The Patchworks of Lucy Boston, and other books by and about Lucy, can be purchased from this website:

http://www.greenknowe.co.uk/shop.html

The Work of Craft

2007-02-22T12:35:00.000Z

The Work of Craft An inquiry into the nature of crafts and craftsmanship, by Carla Needleman, is an extended meditation on the relationship between Craft and craftsmen. She herself is a potter, and although she doesn't directly focus on textiles as such she shows that the basic material every craftsmen works with is him or her self. Whatever is between one's hands, the clay, the wood, the wool, the fabric, responds to the quality of one's inner state. The product of one's work is not just an object but a way of being.

In reviewing this book, Frederick Franck, author of The Zen of Seeing, said that it is a book "...for anyone whose hands itch to make something - pot, piece of weaving, wooden clog, painting or book - with seriousness, so that it is undivorced from the maker's inner life."

Here are some random quotes taken from Needleman's book:

"The realisation that when I work at my craft in a way that allows each moment to fall of its own weight, without hurrying it or retaining it, such a way of working will produce in me a state of greater sensitivity, can lead me to use this method as an inner technique having as its goal the state itself, solely for the pleasure of it. (P.9)"

"What does it mean that I undertake to study myself? Perhaps it can mean that I extend myself into the Craft, willing to sacrifice any of my own opinions that experience proves false. I undertake to begin a conversation with the craft, to listen to it, to be taught by the effort of trying to understand it. (Pages 12/13)"

Carla Needleman. The Work of Craft. An inquiry into the nature of crafts and craftsmanship. Alfred Knopf. NY. 1979. isbn 0 394 49718 X

Illustration shows 'Railroad Crossing', an 1930s American block pattern attributed to Nancy Cabot.

Patchwork and the Spirit of Geometry. Part Two

2007-02-22T12:26:00.001Z

Jonathan Holstein considered pieced quilts superior to appliqué quilts in variety, invention and ingenuity. "For the quilt maker, the pieced block dictated the use of basic geometric forms, the possibilities of which were later sensed and exploited by abstract painters. The beauty of appliqué quilts is more of a decorative nature than that seen in the best of the pieced quilt, which when successful are the results of legitimate questions having been posed and most convincingly resolved. The license to draw freely, if it is encumbered with considerations of what is "elegant" or in "good taste", maybe more confining than finding creative solutions within a given format."Despite the fact that the period when many of these quilts were made, i.e. the mid-19th to the early 20th century, saw the emergence of geometric form as a consciously employed primary source in design, painting and sculpture, Jonathan Holstein reminds us that when such quilts were made they were accepted as common, utilitarian objects, not "art"; indeed, if presented as such they would certainly have been reviled. Nonetheless,,comparison between the visual effects of some of the best 19th and early 20th century quilts and paintings of that period are irresistible. Holstein points out the similarities between the "total visual effects " of some pieced quilts and examples of modern painting, for instance the retinal stimulation achieved through colour and formal relationships, and optical illusion, in the works of artists such as Vasaraly, while the use of repeated images drawn from the environment reminds us of the sequential use of images exemplified in the work of Andy Warhol. Colour variation on a single format, as seen in some Amish quilts, is compared with, for example, Josef Albers’ Homage to the Square series.There are other points of comparison between quilts and paintings: quilts have the same format as most paintings, that is to say they are rectangular or square. (Painters fitted their frescoes largely to squared interiors and exteriors, worked on squared panels, used rectangular structures, whereas the square or rectangular format of the quilt was the fitted by the size and shape of beds.) Finally, quilts like paintings are two dimensional.Holstein goes on to say: "intriguing and startling as the resemblances me be, any direct linking of the two media [i.e. quilting and painting] would be demeaning to the history and presence of both quilts and paintings. Implicit in the art of creating painting is the intellectual process which ties the work of an artist to his disaffected ancestors and his peers, and places sit in the history of objects specifically made to be art. This is precisely the quality which was absent in the making of pieced quilts. The women who made pieced quilts were not "artists", that is, they did not intend to make art, had no sense of the place of their work in a continuous stream of art history, did not, in short, intellectualise the production of handcraft any more than did the makers of objects in the vernacular tradition the world over." Jonathan Holstein: The Pieced Quilt. An American Design Tradition.

Illustration shows 'Alhambra I', the first in a series of quilts inspired by Moorish decorative motifs.

Patchwork and the Spirit of Geometry. Part 1

2007-02-22T12:17:00.000Z

An article I found 10 years ago on The Virtual Quilt, by Catherine Jones, seems to me as interesting and relevant today as it was then. The question she asked was this: what is the status of straightforward geometric patchwork in a time of ever more adventurous experimentation with the medium of the quilt? 10 years on, this trend shows no sign of losing its impetus, to the point where many people describe themselves as "textile artists" rather than quilters and use a huge variety of techniques to achieve their aims.

Interestingly, many textile artists who started out in the quilt world tend to at least keep a toe in those waters, to exhibit at quilt shows and to teach and give talks on patchwork and quilting. Several reasons for this could be advanced; a significant feature of the quilting world at large is the sense of community and bonding it engenders. Even people who have deviated from the mainstream retain affectionate friendships and liaison within the quilting world, while the less adventurous enjoy talks and classes with well-known makers who may challenge their assumptions and inspire them to experiment and explore. (The result is the eclecticism in styles and techniques of quilts seen at exhibitions today - everyone seems to be dyeing, painting, manipulating …….the list goes on.) There is also the fact that growth in the number of people becoming involved in patchwork and quilting, especially through the proliferation of groups and dedicated quilting shops, provides a useful and easily accessed client base for many textile artists.

But back to Catherine Jones's question. Where does this leave today’s patchwork quilt maker, someone who doesn’t wish to paint or dye fabric or turn their quilt into a collage, someone who enjoys straightforward piecing of geometric shapes? Can this be art? Jones broadens her discussion by placing patchwork in the context of geometric art forms found throughout the ages in many cultures and traditions. First, she argues that geometric art, with its straight lines and orderly arrangement which make it look so deceptively simple, challenges common expectations of what qualifies as "art". Furthermore, it conceals the mark of the maker's hand and Furthermore, it conceals the mark of the maker's hand and discourages last-minute creative revision. "In an era that prizes individuality and the frenzy of artistic inspiration, geometric work can come across as too impersonal, too well-crafted and too deliberate."

Jones also points out that except in certain instances, most notably the world of Islamic geometrical art forms, crafts based on these forms have been traditionally associated with relatively underprivileged social groups, that is to say with people who don't usually function as mainstream arbiters of artistic taste. Both patchwork and basketry, for example, have at times been associated with poverty and a make-two-and-mend ethos. The art historian, Oleg Grabar, in a lecture he gave at the National Gallery of Art, after making a survey of non-Islamic ornament, concluded as follows "….. the areas and claims that most consistently exhibit geometric ornamentation are at the periphery of major cultural centres or at the edges of dominating social classes". He went on to speculate that "….. geometry was the privilege of the illiterate, the remote, the popularly pious, the women using (and/or making) textiles and ceramics". Grabar described the graphic artist M.C.Escher, famous for his geometric works, despite falling in to none of these underprivileged categories, as "an orphan within the pantheon of contemporary painters and draughtsman".

All these attitudes conspire, in subtle ways, to relegate patchwork to an inferior status. Jones is dismissive of attempts to upgrade the work of some contemporary quilt-makers by comparing it to that of celebrated artists, such as Mondrian, or by linking it with jazz. She says "linking quilt-making with jazz - with free-form, urban music performed mostly by men - is a tempting way to upgrade the status of a geometrical and traditionally rural, feminine, textile-based art form. But I question whether the analogy holds and whether the constrained, geometric nature of patchwork may not, in fact, be a positive feature, a source of artistic power.”I hereby declare an interest: I love mosaic patchwork more than any other style, and will argue in further postings that its possibilities as a channel of artistic expression are inexhaustible.

Illustration shows geometric patchwork: 'Cross Patch', a variation on a Nine-patch block.

Sampler Quilts

2007-02-21T21:15:00.001Z

2006 began as usual - with deadlines! However things looked up considerably when the proofs of The Quilter's and Patchworker's Colour Mixing Bible were checked and dispatched. But then that felt a bit odd as I'd been on deadlines more or less continuously for four years.Freedom is elating - then you have to consider what to do with it. A cold, hard look at the workroom provided some clues: there were boxes containing over 300 patchwork blocks, returned from the publishers when various books were finished. Too good to waste and I was too mean to give them away, even if anyone had wanted them. Trying not to dwell on the investment of time and money they represented, I decided on a practical solution: Sampler Quilts.This turned out to be a much more interesting exercise than I could possibly have imagined. This one is an assortment of blocks made for the Saturated colours section of The Quilter's and Patchworker's Colour Mixing Bible. The sashing fabric, mixed bright colours on a black background, echoes the colours but is dark enough to add a litle drama to the effect.

Patchwork Picture - Victorian style

2007-02-21T20:50:00.000Z

A quintessentially American patchwork pattern - Rolling Star - gets a convincingly Victorian look because it's English hand-pieced in an eclectic mix of cotton, velvet, silk and satin (an old nightie). Piecing this block in these fabrics would have been difficult by any other method. One of a pair framed under glass as mock Victoriana. Viewers tend to assume it really is Victorian and I've given up explaining!

English Patchwork

2007-02-21T20:45:00.000Z

In the customary New Year work-room clear-out I always find large numbers of UFOs, the motivation for some of which entirely escapes me. I’d like to report that I ruthlessly ditch anything I can’t see a use for, but it’s hard …you never know when something may come in for some yet-to-be devised project! This year, I found a large cache of English patchwork pieces, by which I mean mostly patches tacked over papers ready to be sewn together. It reminded me of how passionate I ‘d been about English patchwork when I first started, nearly 30 years ago. I did use a sewing- machine as well, but it was the fitting together of all those little mosaic pieces by hand that really fascinated me.

My first inspiration was, of course, Avril Colby, shortly to be followed by Lucy Boston. The blue cushion shown was made using the long hexagon template (also known as church window) which Lucy used for her Patchwork of the Crosses. (There is an article about her on my web site which includes a detail from that patchwork.) Using just this one template she created a huge number of different block designs simply by selecting out various pattern elements from the fabrics -what the Americans nowadays call "fussy cutting".I used a border fabric to try to emulate her. Quite a lot of my early patchwork was done in this way, - I was particularly keen on making fabric pictures.

It so happens that my class of ten enthusiastic patchworkers, all keen hand-stitchers, asked particularly to learn English patchwork this month. I'm looking forward to seeing what they make of it, have been working up to now by the American method of piecing. To illustrate the advantages of English patchwork, I've chosen a fairly complex block which has some awkward inset seams, a block which it would be quite possible to make either by machine or by the American hand-sewn method but which, in my opinion, is so much easier to make accurately by English piecing.

Kaleidoscope

2007-02-21T20:32:00.000Z

I can't bear to think how long this patchwork quilt has been hanging on the stairs at The Brown House! The simple, traditional Kaleidoscope blocks are all pieced in hard-wearing upholstery fabrics, for the very simple reason that it was intended as a sofa throw for a very large Yellow Labrador with deplorable habits. It's tied rather than quilted. However, my partner thought it was wasted on Bruno, so next time I looked it was hanging on the wall. He now claims it's too high to be removed - says he can't reach it any longer. :) So there it remains, year after year, gathering dust, which I occasionally try to hoover off. It's on a North-facing wall so hasn't faded as much as I'd expect.

Gentleman's Dressing Gown

2007-02-21T18:56:00.000Z

Detail of dressing gown showing lining and velvet collar. As some of the fabrics are 'exotics' - brocade, silk and satin, for instance, the collar, cuffs and hem are finished in cotton velvet, which is strong enough to take wear and tear in the most vulnerable places.

Japanese 16th Century Patchwork

2007-02-21T18:42:00.000Z

Patchwork in Japan has historically had religious significance. In Shinto, the predominant religion, all things animate and inanimate are believed to be imbued with a spirit, and this of course includes textiles. In ancient times fabric was so highly valued as to sometimes be used as a form of currency and fabrics were given as tribute to emperors and warlords. Even today old textiles have symbolic meaning: the giving of a patchwork garment, for example, conveys a wish for long life for the recipient, while the care and preservation of textiles is seen as a spiritual exercise. My padded and quilted patchwork dressing gowns are inspired by the 16th Century Japanese patchwork style known as ‘yosegire’. The word means ‘the sewing together of different fragments’ and is a form of what we in the West would describe as ‘crazy patchwork.’